2.11.2008

A room with a view.




The sun just set over the Gulf of Corinth. Watching the last color streak the sky blue pink, I close my eyes and take a deep breath. What a view! This little hotel hugs the side of a mountain leading to Delphi, land of the ancient oracles. We arrived this afternoon having come from Athens, with a short stop at the monastery of St Luke, a Byzantine Church dating back to the 10th century. A masterpiece of a monument!

For the past several days, I’ve been with a small group of students from Virginia. Leading them through the streets of Athens, I’m excited for them to see what the city has in store for us. How precious are these kids! They are beyond excited to be here and “see everything”, open to try new foods and fearless as the ways of a big city. Their excitement is contagious and it’s as if I’m just one of the kids seeing all of this with new eyes.

A local guide Filjia, has joined us from Meteora. She a fiery woman, short with blond hair, and only adds to our enjoyment.. gleaning us insight into this ancient civilization. The depth and passion of her knowledge is humbling! Oh how much I can learn from her. Already, she has invited me to stay with her when I come visit her town next month. Did I not tell you the Greeks were inviting?!

After a leisure afternoon of exploring little Delphi, we enjoyed another wonderful meal- by a fire nevertheless! Sitting there at dinner, I listening as the students laughed and talked with each other, so content and happy. In that moment, I felt so honored to share in this with them. To be apart of such an experience for them yet also have the platform to encourage them, love on them. How they hang on my words. It is quite empowering! Yet, I can only direct that back to God. This isn’t about me. And I wouldn’t want it to be any other way.

Now I sit here curled up in bed writing. The doors leading to the balcony are open. Though its cold, the fresh crisp air mingled with the comforting scent escaping from chimneys, makes its way into my room. I can’t think of a better way to drift into sleep..

Tomorrow we make our way to Corinth…

Athens



The time spent in Athens thus far as been wonderful. It is a city which from afar, looks like the seabed of white shells. Up close and personal, Athens is far from charming. It has it’s moments of saving grace but it is an otherwise city of peeling paint (beyond the ‘shabby chic’ look), run down buildings, dirty streets, and a crossroads of cultures where east meets west. All cohabiting, trying to make a life from themselves. I've been told that there is life before 2004 Olympics and there is life after. Apparently things are better? hmm..

This is a city seeped in history. In fact, it dates back to the pre-historic times.. meaning before history was even recorded, written! To grasp the lineage which the Greeks come from is humbling to those of us Americans who think we have something to be proud of (we do.. but we have nothing on the Greeks! :) And the language. Only a mere 12 million speak a language which once was the language of civilization as we know it. Yet where this city may need a paint job, it makes up for in it’s people who are incredibly friendly, warm and inviting.

The days prior to my groups’ arrival, I spent wandering the city, with coffeebreaks to study and then, meeting people. The conversations were enlightening, but beyond the conversations, where the stories I heard, what I learned of the people themselves.

When you travel, do you really allow yourself to meet people beyond ‘where you from..? oh I went there once… enjoy your stay!’ How often do you take the moment to understand where someone else is coming from, and hear their stories? They can be both beautiful and heart piercing. You can be envious of their life and at the same be grateful for the life you lead.

This more than anything, is what I take from my travels: the stories. Not so much the souvenirs and photographs, as much as I enjoy those. The stories are what stay with me.

The night before my group arrived, I sat on Mar’s Hill aka Aeropagus where Paul was once brought to speak before the Athenians. Watching the sunset, the sky turned cobalt blue and the city looked like clusters of stars shimmering in the distance. Once again, I was rendered speechless. I was in Athens.

In that moment, I stood feeling the wind and taking it all in. My thoughts were broken by a man asking me where I was from. Standing at a distance from me, I wasn’t sure who he was talking to.

Now, having lived in Italy.. I know this question all too well. At the same time, I’m alone. I welcome the conversation. So there the three of us stood talking for a while.. one was Greek, the other Albanian by that of his parents yet was born and raised in Greece. Hercules- I love it! (25) and George (34). We had an interesting conversations up on that rock. The wind began to pick up, a clue to start heading down. My night lay before me with no plans other than to study so when the offer
was presented to join them for a coffee, I took company over my books.

Not knowing anyone here in Athens, I welcomed my new companions knowledge of this city and culture, language and history. As I followed them through the streets, passing many cafes I began to wonder… Yet the moment we stepped for into this café/bar and my new friend expressing ‘this is my favorite, they make a the best coffee’. He needed say no more. Settling into a corner table, here we sat speaking of cultures and differences, of Athens and the people.. they expressed
the troubles with the Greek girls.. jobs.. one in particular expressed his recognizing the fact he needed to work on a change within himself. A sharp kid. The older one nodded in agreement. Sitting there for a moment, none of us said anything.

As the last bit of coffee was gone, we left the café. Walking back to the metro, one invited me to hisfamily’s home for a real Greek dinner.. but I graciously declined. They both assured me if I needed help, that I was no longer alone in this city, they
would be there in a moment. Giving them a warm smile, we went our separate ways. I have two new friends. No longer do I feel so completely alone in this city.

Riding the metro back to the hotel, I thought over the past 36 hours, over the moments I’ve already experiences.. the people I’ve met, the thoughts I’ve heard expressed and the history of this city itself. I recognize that all of these moments in time, people and place continue to weave themselves in the fabric of who I am, who I am becoming... and this was only the
second day!

It's all Greek to me.



For years now I’ve wanted to come to Greece. It’s a culture that I’ve yet to know much about unlike many of the other European countries I visit. The night before departing for Athens, I could hardly sleep. The excitement that I felt was refreshing.

Unfortunately my travels across the Atlantic seemed to stifle that feeling. Between delayed flights, missed international connections, unfriendly airline agents, long layovers, lost luggage.. I was starting to feel the ‘what am I doing?’ question playing upon my conscious.

Arriving in Rome, if not to see my luggage, I was thrilled to see a friend from home greet me at the hotel. Wandering through Rome at dusk, good conversation and dinner at the best spaghetteria in town lifted my spirits.

The morning came, and with it.. I wasn't sure if I’d see my luggage. I worried, as I had to make an 11am flight to Athens on a different carrier.. and my luggage was suppose to come in from JFK on the 7:55am flight. Standing at the luggage claim, relief washed over me as my bag came my way. Collecting my things, I went to make a quick change and freshen up before reluctantly giving my bag back over to Olympic Airlines. At least I was taking a non stop flight..

Flying into Greece, I felt a mix of excitement and anxiousness. From the moment I stepped foot on the plane, the Greeks were gorgeous. I was surrounded by eye candy ☺ Having spent SO much time in Europe, it's become a very comfortable place. Even if I speak Italian.. and recognize the French .. German and Spanish.. Greece was to be different. I was ready for something more unfamiliar.

I arrived as did my luggage and soon found my way into the city center. Upon exciting the metro, I looked to find a cab to whisk me to my hotel.. but alas, i saw none. (Taxis went on strike this day of course). So I began to walk.. having no idea the scale of the map as to how long i'd be walking.. 45 mins later, I felt another wave of relief as I saw the hotel around the corner. I checked in and could hardly wait to take a nap.. the previous nights' sleep left me restless as my subconscious wondered about how the next few days would unfold. But in this moment, i fell sound asleep with great comfort.

Showered and cleaned up, I was ready for the night.. I headed back towards the Plaka district for dinner. Setting out for the metro, walking the streets i felt that same feeling of the unknown and unfamiliar mixed with even a little uncomfortableness. The people here are dark haired and dark eyed.. I felt the eyes on me of men as I walked.. but kept walking as if i'd lived here. Yeah right- I was so a kernel of corn in a bowl of peas! Asking for directions, i fumbled to grasp this language. Exiting the metro in Plaka, I now was set on finding a little place for dinner. Turning the corner, I was stopped short by the breath-taking view of the Acropolis.. The Parthenon a beacon on the hill. In that moment, the past 48 hours of travel disappeared. My wandering became not as a result of hunger but of desire to get a closer glimpse. This led me down little back streets and corner cafes until finally, under loom of the Acropolis, I found a little restaurant. There were two men playing music and a fire burning. Perfect. I sat down with an open mind to what i'd be eating. To my delight, I enjoyed a wonderful meal.. flavors so fresh and wonderful. First a Greek salad.. fresh feta, tomatoes, red onion and olives dressed in olive oil and fresh oregano.. amazing. THEN a little sample plate: Dolmadakia Yalantzi: grape leaves with a sauce of fresh dill and yogurt; Moussaka: marinated eggplant and ground meat covered in a cream sauce; Tyropitakia: philo pastry stuffed with feta, nutmeg and sausage. And to top it all off, the coffee had to be one of the best espresso's i've ever had. I savored the meal.. all the while, taking in the beautiful music of two men playing traditional Greek music. They played with skill and passion.. sitting there, feeling the wine and the mingled flavors of the food, allowing the music to envelope me.. I felt so incredibly grateful for that moment. I was in Greece. Far away from my life back home. And to think, I almost didn't want to come..

I closed the place down. After everyone left and I paid my bill, I approached the two musicians. They spoke English and I expressed my appreciation for their music. Bubi and Costas. Both very talented yet very humble. We talked about music.. anything from Paul Simon and Neil Young to Johnny Cash and George Gershwin. The night ended with me playing with them.. singing old songs.. playing guitar while they harmonized and played along. I must of had a smile ear to ear in that moment. I love how music surpasses language.. what a gift! Took me back to Italy..

Walking back to the metro, I felt such immense joy. This was the be the start to a great week.

2.09.2008

the mind's eye.

In a moment I am back. Whether simply through a city or upon viewing a photograph, I am transported back. The sounds of the city comes alive, I feel the breeze in my hair and the sun on my back.. taking a deep breath, I feel apart of this world again.

How is it that in a city of my own country, I feel more of a foreigner than that of country whom did not give birth to my life?

There are those moment when I try and be still.. quieting my mind. Yet in such moments, I travel back through worlds of past as if I’m time lapsing through my life. At night, laying in bed surrounded by a room wallpapered in photographs.. I find solice in them. This is the life I've made for myself have I not?

These are the sudden journeys of my life..