island of roses

Our ship docked for the day at the island of Rhodes ‘Roses’. The morning was spent exploring the far part of the island in Lindos and the rest of the day in the old city of Rhodes. One of the enjoyable parts of the day is when the touring comes to a cease and the group is let loose to enjoy the rest of the day as they like.

As I’ve mentioned before, the first thing I do when I enter a new city- I explore. After taking care of things for the rest of the day and the following, I could now have my time to do as I please. Immediately I started off away from the hoards of tourists having disembarked with. Apparently we were the first cruise ship in of the season so the locals where armed and ready for us to spend our money, ‘you like? Have a look. Only 2 euros. Handmade’, they call out at us as we pass by. But rather than spend money.. I spent time wandering these empty winding streets, each corner offering some new around the corner. Wandering these streets, I felt like I was wandering through a maze yet rather than trying to find my way out.. I was trying to find my way in. Passing home with door half way open, as if only to give me a glimpse of the life so different from that of the southern hills I was brought up surrounded by. I spotted children playing soccer in the open squares.. women setting out pots of flowers.. men sitting in cafes smoking and discussing. No open fields here. Just the open sea.. and an island of stone roses..

That's so crazy?!

The group I’m with has been wonderful. We’ve already covered some ground in the just the few days we’ve been together.. Philippi, Kavala, Veria, Verginia and Thessaloniki. Traveling south through the heart of mainland Greece, we are now in route to Athens. Yet at the moment we aren’t making much leeway as we are stuck in incoming traffic to the city. Those sitting up front are getting a kick out of the ‘crazy’ driving. Motorcycles weave between cars, a smart car attempts to makes his way through and what was once 4 lanes is now … hmmmm 3.. 5.. oh wow, we just passed a bus broken down in the middle of it all along with another car which has been hit. Now we have a glimpse of how much traffic lays ahead of us. We are going to be here awhile.

Listening to the comments around me about the way they drive, the amount of unfinished buildings.. I recall the other comments I’ve heard expressed from this group over the past few days: ‘eww they don’t have seats on their toilets, that’s gross!’ ‘do you think they have to-go boxes?’ ‘ the cars are so small here!’ ‘why is nothing open on Monday? (Lent)’ why does everyone smoke here?’ ‘why does everyone wear such dark colors?’ ‘why can’t you flush toilet paper?’ ‘that’s so strange!’ ‘that’s so crazy!’ yes.. this is why you travel. To understand the rest of the world does not work like you are use to. What may be strange to you is normal to them. What you may think as going without, they don’t know any different other than they’ve always gone without and know no other way. It’s not that their cars are small, it is that ours are big. You have to change the way you think- understand the difference in mentalities. It’s not that they are crazy drivers.. but this is how they do things. It seemingly works. What I also find interesting in these tours, in doing them for several years now is how parents teach their children to not do or to do certain things, respect this and that.. yet the exact thing they scold them for (be quiet, make do without, stop talking and listen, don’t wander off from the group) is exactly what the adults then turn around and do themselves. They don’t live out what they ask of their kids. Constantly I see this. It’s a bit frustrating to see this happen. Parents wander off while a local guide is giving information, they decide they don’t want to eat with the rest of the group and have a ‘better meal’. I am learning a lot just by watching these interexchanges within these groups. It is all an example to me! Now I’m not saying this is the way it is with all the groups, with all the adults but I see it enough to obviously write about it. It’s no wonder these kids gets so confused!

Uncharted waters.

Arriving into Thessaloniki’s airport, I now see why this is such a difficult city to fly into. As we taxied to the gate, I found myself searching for the actual airport. After being the such airports as Dallas… Kennedy … Frankfurt, I was amazed to see such a small outpost when I did see the little building.. ‘so THIS is why such few flights come and go from this place…’ Joining the rest of the flight on our shuttle bus to (the 7th for the day?) the terminal, I noted that I was once again an outsider and felt the side-way glances my way.

Gathering my luggage, I went in search for a city bus. Oh wait.. that’s right, there are none today as guess what.. a strike. My favorite! Oh wait and the taxi’s aren’t running either.. great. Being in a new city.. in a language that not only could I not grasp but not even distinguish.. I told myself ‘think kyle.. what are your options’. So.. basically, I approached a stranger and asked for a ride. This goes against EVERYTHING you are told not to do when you are a kid. But what was I left with but to rely on those around me?

Thankfully, I found a man who was willing to take me to town as my hotel was in the center of the city. On the way, we picked up several other people. It was everything in me not to be a little anxious but just be cool and not assume the worst. A new landscape flew by me and, twenty minutes later, I was in front of my hotel. Ok. I work for a ministry. A non profit organization. We don’t stay in hotels that leave much to write home about but when I stepped through the revolving doors into the lobby of the Hotel Capsis.. massive chandeliers hung above a spacious marble lobby, fresh flowers graced each table and well- dressed men greeting me with polished smiles. I actually stepped back outside and looked at the sign to make sure I was in the right place! And to my relief.. I was ☺

After 30 hours of travel.. I wanted nothing more than to curl up in bed and shut the world off. I fought sleep for a shower and exploring. Before doing so, I watched the sunset over the port of Thessaloniki from my balcony. I have to remind myself to find moments to stop and feel the silence.

Setting out to wander the city, I had no sense of where to even go. So I started to walk. There is something exilerating about exploring uncharted waters, all that is unknown and unfamiliar to me. I had no preconceived ideas as to what this part of the country was like therefore I welcomed the newness of this experience. After awhile, I came to an area of darkened side streets. Again, I went against what your taught as a child- don’t go wandering down darkened deserted streets alone. Yet it served me right as after a few moments of only hearing my foot steps, soon I saw lights draping across the streets as if to welcome me as if to say ‘we have something for you.’ The streets then gave way to a square surrounded by restaurants/cafes. And if you listened close enough, you could here that these streets whispered of the Orient of it’s past. Later I discovered this was the old Egyptian markets and later home to the Turkish Bazaar. Today is serves as a wonderful enclave of restaurants and cafes. I had hit the jackpot. Now I had to decide which one of these would win me over. After exploring a little, inspecting a several menus I made my decision.

Entering this little restaurant, I immediately felt the warmth of the environment. The painted walls mimicked the frescos I recall of that I’d seen in Pompeii, candles set on each table served as little beacons and contemporary Greek music played on low, setting the scene for my night. The past thirty hours of travels washed away the moment I sat down and I welcomed the night that lay before.

Dinner was something I savored: hearty bread with thyme and honeyed goat cheese spread, lightly fried zucchini and feta cakes served with a yogurt sauce, grilled pork in a white wine rosemary infused reduction sauce along with pureed potatoes. While enjoying this wonderful meal, I found that I was surrounded by Bulgarians, Slavs, Turks, Romanians and Greeks. Again I received my share of not only side way glances but an interest as to ‘where do you come from?’ You see this city is the gateway to the Balkans and a direct link to Istanbul… Constantinople. The interchange of cultures here is vibrant and much different than that which I experienced in Athens. Such history has this city known! Life is meant to be shared, savored and experienced. How we settle.. limit ourselves. Cut the rope that ties you to your harbor and let yourself explore these uncharted waters. What is your faith if you never allow for it?

Climbing into bed that night, I was excited for the week that lay ahead. Closing my eyes I could smell the sea drifting through the balcony doors which soon carried me to sleep.

Calendari Restaurant • 1 Oplopiou & Katouni Str. • Ladadika. Thessaloniki
Hotel Capsis • 18 Monastiriou Str. • Thessaloniki

Glimpses

Thirty hours have pasted since I left Dallas.. in that time, I’ve passed through five airports, taken 4 planes, taxis, shuttles, monorails, and am currently Greece bound on a flight which takes me far above a part of Europe I’ve yet to discover- The Balkans. The capitan just announced that we were somewhere over Serbia.. then Bulgaria. In addition to expressing his plea for all of us to stand by Olympic Airlines in their fight to continue to fly throughout Europe. This was said in Greek, German and finally English.

We are now circling Macedonia.

As I struggle to stay awake, I’m beyond tired. The woman next to me must be in her 60’s but looked much older. Moments ago I took out a Health magazine and laid it in the seat between us to remind myself to put it back in my bag. The woman next to me then snatched it up and began flipping through its’ pages. At first I was a little taken by her action then realized she was curious.. I watched her as she looked at the article on ‘ staying fit and young in your 30’s, 40’s and 50’s’. She was catching glimpses of a lifestyle much different than that of hers..

The plane is circling over Greece now. I can see the coast before me. Looks like an announcement was just made.. something has happened. Those who speak Greek have responded by throwing up their arms and voicing their annoyance at yet another delay in our landing… ahh, but we’ll get there. We are much closer than I was a day ago..

My tour schedule.

Here is where I will be for the next several months:

January 8th- 18th: England. France
February 4th- 18th: Greece. New York City
March 1st- 30th: Greece. Turkey
April 11th-26th: New York City
May 1st- 5th: Nashville (photograph a wedding)
May 14th- 31st: Italy. Austria. Czech Republic. Germany
June 1st- July 3rd: Italy (possibly Croatia. Slovenia)

Bright Lights. Big City

“ There are times when one could wish that the good Lord would start all over again with Creation and straighten a few things out that didn’t turn out so well the first time. He wouldn’t have to look very hard- He would choose New York City, because everything that is assembled there is just like Noah’s Ark: all cultures and all races. It is not only the buildings and skyscrapers, the towers and parks that give NYC its face- it is the people. The United Nations is located on the East River and that’s perfectly logical. But the fact, one can see the United Nations at the anytime on the subway where the world’s people are united on a space of 430 sq ft. It is the people that make NYC more colorful than the brightest lights in Time Square. New York is rich- and at the same time, incredibly poor. New York is both filthy and clean. New York is at the same time decadent and decent, beautiful and ugly. That’s not even contradictory. The city is like a human being with all its emotions and moods, full and sorrow. That is the true charm of New York City. It is the most human city on this planet- with all the attendant merits and shortcomings.”

Each time I arrive back into New York City, I feel as though I’ve never left. I imagine it much like a fish being let back into a stream, immediately back with all the others… in the flow of things.

Entering Manhattan from Jersey, I find that there is a thick blanket of snow covering the city. For a moment, it is as I’m walking through a Stegliz or Coburn photograph. These are those kind of moments that stand out in your mind.. decades from now when you look out the window and see the first snow of winter, you remember walking through Manhattan’s Central Park, the stillness that snow brings with it.

In the morning, I will meet with my sweet friends for brunch. Along with me will come a girl who I am training to lead tours here in the city. She’s never experienced brunch in the city.. so, we are remedying this!

Brunch:
Elephant and Castle • Greenwich Ave and 7th Ave (the Village)
Doma • Perry Street and W 4th Street (the Village) • serves great coffee and French toast
Home • Cornelia Street & Bleeker Street (the Village) • cozy atmosphere, feel good food
Good Eats • 483 Amsterdam Ave & 83rd St (Upper West Side)
Westville • 210 W 10th and Bleeker (the Village)
Clinton Street Bakery • Clinton Street and Houston (Lower East Side) get the scrambled eggs over homemade biscuits topped with tomato puree- amazing!
The Hungarian Bakery • Amsterdam Ave & W 111th St

Tomorrow my NYC tour begins!

window seat

The sun is beginning to set. As the plane begins to gain air, ascending above the islands, thus the sun begins its descent. For a moment, I can’t distinguish between the sea and the sun- they’ve made a perfect marriage of the moment. Flying over a large island, I take this to be Crete. Did I just spend over a week in Greece?! As much as Italy has grown deep roots within me, I may just have a new favorite. Where Italy lacks, Greece more than makes up for. I’ve come to accept Italians for ‘that’s the way they are’ but as of late, the apathy and vocal opinions of Bush grow tiresome. What a welcome treat it was to be in a country where consistently you were greeted with a genuine warm smile- you felt welcomed, not an inconvenience.

I interrupt my own thoughts to mention that there is an incredible show going outside my window. The horizon line has turned the color of - never have I quite seen the sky a deep red such as I’m experiencing now.

In a short while, Rome will be my place of rest. For only a night will I call it ‘home’ before making the long stretch back stateside. Reflecting over the past week, words can not express the joy this sweet group brought me. Their excitement and willingness, their flexibility and laid back attitude not to mention their attentiveness and desire to understand, left an impression on me. As frustrating as traveling can be, how incredible has this week been!

Restaurants:
Aleska’s Tabepna • mnisikleous 2 • Plaka. Athens
Grill House • aischylou 14-16 • Psiri Square. Athens

A room with a view.

The sun just set over the Gulf of Corinth. Watching the last color streak the sky blue pink, I close my eyes and take a deep breath. What a view! This little hotel hugs the side of a mountain leading to Delphi, land of the ancient oracles. We arrived this afternoon having come from Athens, with a short stop at the monastery of St Luke, a Byzantine Church dating back to the 10th century. A masterpiece of a monument!

For the past several days, I’ve been with a small group of students from Virginia. Leading them through the streets of Athens, I’m excited for them to see what the city has in store for us. How precious are these kids! They are beyond excited to be here and “see everything”, open to try new foods and fearless as the ways of a big city. Their excitement is contagious and it’s as if I’m just one of the kids seeing all of this with new eyes.

A local guide Filjia, has joined us from Meteora. She a fiery woman, short with blond hair, and only adds to our enjoyment.. gleaning us insight into this ancient civilization. The depth and passion of her knowledge is humbling! Oh how much I can learn from her. Already, she has invited me to stay with her when I come visit her town next month. Did I not tell you the Greeks were inviting?!

After a leisure afternoon of exploring little Delphi, we enjoyed another wonderful meal- by a fire nevertheless! Sitting there at dinner, I listening as the students laughed and talked with each other, so content and happy. In that moment, I felt so honored to share in this with them. To be apart of such an experience for them yet also have the platform to encourage them, love on them. How they hang on my words. It is quite empowering! Yet, I can only direct that back to God. This isn’t about me. And I wouldn’t want it to be any other way.

Now I sit here curled up in bed writing. The doors leading to the balcony are open. Though its cold, the fresh crisp air mingled with the comforting scent escaping from chimneys, makes its way into my room. I can’t think of a better way to drift into sleep..

Tomorrow we make our way to Corinth…

Athens

The time spent in Athens thus far as been wonderful. It is a city which from afar, looks like the seabed of white shells. Up close and personal, Athens is far from charming. It has it’s moments of saving grace but it is an otherwise city of peeling paint (beyond the ‘shabby chic’ look), run down buildings, dirty streets, and a crossroads of cultures where east meets west. All cohabiting, trying to make a life from themselves. I've been told that there is life before 2004 Olympics and there is life after. Apparently things are better? hmm..

This is a city seeped in history. In fact, it dates back to the pre-historic times.. meaning before history was even recorded, written! To grasp the lineage which the Greeks come from is humbling to those of us Americans who think we have something to be proud of (we do.. but we have nothing on the Greeks! :) And the language. Only a mere 12 million speak a language which once was the language of civilization as we know it. Yet where this city may need a paint job, it makes up for in it’s people who are incredibly friendly, warm and inviting.

The days prior to my groups’ arrival, I spent wandering the city, with coffeebreaks to study and then, meeting people. The conversations were enlightening, but beyond the conversations, where the stories I heard, what I learned of the people themselves.

When you travel, do you really allow yourself to meet people beyond ‘where you from..? oh I went there once… enjoy your stay!’ How often do you take the moment to understand where someone else is coming from, and hear their stories? They can be both beautiful and heart piercing. You can be envious of their life and at the same be grateful for the life you lead.

This more than anything, is what I take from my travels: the stories. Not so much the souvenirs and photographs, as much as I enjoy those. The stories are what stay with me.

The night before my group arrived, I sat on Mar’s Hill aka Aeropagus where Paul was once brought to speak before the Athenians. Watching the sunset, the sky turned cobalt blue and the city looked like clusters of stars shimmering in the distance. Once again, I was rendered speechless. I was in Athens.

In that moment, I stood feeling the wind and taking it all in. My thoughts were broken by a man asking me where I was from. Standing at a distance from me, I wasn’t sure who he was talking to.

Now, having lived in Italy.. I know this question all too well. At the same time, I’m alone. I welcome the conversation. So there the three of us stood talking for a while.. one was Greek, the other Albanian by that of his parents yet was born and raised in Greece. Hercules- I love it! (25) and George (34). We had an interesting conversations up on that rock. The wind began to pick up, a clue to start heading down. My night lay before me with no plans other than to study so when the offer
was presented to join them for a coffee, I took company over my books.

Not knowing anyone here in Athens, I welcomed my new companions knowledge of this city and culture, language and history. As I followed them through the streets, passing many cafes I began to wonder… Yet the moment we stepped for into this café/bar and my new friend expressing ‘this is my favorite, they make a the best coffee’. He needed say no more. Settling into a corner table, here we sat speaking of cultures and differences, of Athens and the people.. they expressed
the troubles with the Greek girls.. jobs.. one in particular expressed his recognizing the fact he needed to work on a change within himself. A sharp kid. The older one nodded in agreement. Sitting there for a moment, none of us said anything.

As the last bit of coffee was gone, we left the café. Walking back to the metro, one invited me to hisfamily’s home for a real Greek dinner.. but I graciously declined. They both assured me if I needed help, that I was no longer alone in this city, they
would be there in a moment. Giving them a warm smile, we went our separate ways. I have two new friends. No longer do I feel so completely alone in this city.

Riding the metro back to the hotel, I thought over the past 36 hours, over the moments I’ve already experiences.. the people I’ve met, the thoughts I’ve heard expressed and the history of this city itself. I recognize that all of these moments in time, people and place continue to weave themselves in the fabric of who I am, who I am becoming... and this was only the
second day!

It's all Greek to me.

For years now I’ve wanted to come to Greece. It’s a culture that I’ve yet to know much about unlike many of the other European countries I visit. The night before departing for Athens, I could hardly sleep. The excitement that I felt was refreshing.

Unfortunately my travels across the Atlantic seemed to stifle that feeling. Between delayed flights, missed international connections, unfriendly airline agents, long layovers, lost luggage.. I was starting to feel the ‘what am I doing?’ question playing upon my conscious.

Arriving in Rome, if not to see my luggage, I was thrilled to see a friend from home greet me at the hotel. Wandering through Rome at dusk, good conversation and dinner at the best spaghetteria in town lifted my spirits.

The morning came, and with it.. I wasn't sure if I’d see my luggage. I worried, as I had to make an 11am flight to Athens on a different carrier.. and my luggage was suppose to come in from JFK on the 7:55am flight. Standing at the luggage claim, relief washed over me as my bag came my way. Collecting my things, I went to make a quick change and freshen up before reluctantly giving my bag back over to Olympic Airlines. At least I was taking a non stop flight..

Flying into Greece, I felt a mix of excitement and anxiousness. From the moment I stepped foot on the plane, the Greeks were gorgeous. I was surrounded by eye candy ☺ Having spent SO much time in Europe, it's become a very comfortable place. Even if I speak Italian.. and recognize the French .. German and Spanish.. Greece was to be different. I was ready for something more unfamiliar.

I arrived as did my luggage and soon found my way into the city center. Upon exciting the metro, I looked to find a cab to whisk me to my hotel.. but alas, i saw none. (Taxis went on strike this day of course). So I began to walk.. having no idea the scale of the map as to how long i'd be walking.. 45 mins later, I felt another wave of relief as I saw the hotel around the corner. I checked in and could hardly wait to take a nap.. the previous nights' sleep left me restless as my subconscious wondered about how the next few days would unfold. But in this moment, i fell sound asleep with great comfort.

Showered and cleaned up, I was ready for the night.. I headed back towards the Plaka district for dinner. Setting out for the metro, walking the streets i felt that same feeling of the unknown and unfamiliar mixed with even a little uncomfortableness. The people here are dark haired and dark eyed.. I felt the eyes on me of men as I walked.. but kept walking as if i'd lived here. Yeah right- I was so a kernel of corn in a bowl of peas! Asking for directions, i fumbled to grasp this language. Exiting the metro in Plaka, I now was set on finding a little place for dinner. Turning the corner, I was stopped short by the breath-taking view of the Acropolis.. The Parthenon a beacon on the hill. In that moment, the past 48 hours of travel disappeared. My wandering became not as a result of hunger but of desire to get a closer glimpse. This led me down little back streets and corner cafes until finally, under loom of the Acropolis, I found a little restaurant. There were two men playing music and a fire burning. Perfect. I sat down with an open mind to what i'd be eating. To my delight, I enjoyed a wonderful meal.. flavors so fresh and wonderful. First a Greek salad.. fresh feta, tomatoes, red onion and olives dressed in olive oil and fresh oregano.. amazing. THEN a little sample plate: Dolmadakia Yalantzi: grape leaves with a sauce of fresh dill and yogurt; Moussaka: marinated eggplant and ground meat covered in a cream sauce; Tyropitakia: philo pastry stuffed with feta, nutmeg and sausage. And to top it all off, the coffee had to be one of the best espresso's i've ever had. I savored the meal.. all the while, taking in the beautiful music of two men playing traditional Greek music. They played with skill and passion.. sitting there, feeling the wine and the mingled flavors of the food, allowing the music to envelope me.. I felt so incredibly grateful for that moment. I was in Greece. Far away from my life back home. And to think, I almost didn't want to come..

I closed the place down. After everyone left and I paid my bill, I approached the two musicians. They spoke English and I expressed my appreciation for their music. Bubi and Costas. Both very talented yet very humble. We talked about music.. anything from Paul Simon and Neil Young to Johnny Cash and George Gershwin. The night ended with me playing with them.. singing old songs.. playing guitar while they harmonized and played along. I must of had a smile ear to ear in that moment. I love how music surpasses language.. what a gift! Took me back to Italy..

Walking back to the metro, I felt such immense joy. This was the be the start to a great week.

the mind's eye.

In a moment I am back. Whether simply through a city or upon viewing a photograph, I am transported back. The sounds of the city comes alive, I feel the breeze in my hair and the sun on my back.. taking a deep breath, I feel apart of this world again.

How is it that in a city of my own country, I feel more of a foreigner than that of country whom did not give birth to my life?

There are those moment when I try and be still.. quieting my mind. Yet in such moments, I travel back through worlds of past as if I’m time lapsing through my life. At night, laying in bed surrounded by a room wallpapered in photographs.. I find solice in them. This is the life I've made for myself have I not?

These are the sudden journeys of my life..